The T12 sting mill station on the STM32 controller v2.1S version of 2019

  • Price: $44.26 (at the time of publication)

Somewhat unexpectedly, I was offered a KSGER soldering station based on the new version of the v2.1S controller, which uses a pulse stabilizer instead of a linear converter for secondary power. Since there were no reviews for this version, I was seduced, eventually getting a station that was excellent in all the components from the purchased on their own. In addition to the new controller in it is a power supply of a new sample, and the body is plastic against my metal. In the review I will try to compare all these components. Spoiler: a controller on a faster processor, with a different OU and a battery backup problem.

A little preamble. In the comments to my review sancho1971 brought a photo of the new version of the controller, which has already got a few Muskows. He did not do the review, confining himself to the discussion in the comments. At the same time, some points remained incomprehensible to me. At the same time, I showed the review to the seller as proof that the power supply does not withstand the stated current (I had a slight argument with him before buying his station), and the scheme of powering the controller is not on the "fen" date. To which in response and received an offer to test a new version of the controller with a new BP.

Next, I will refer to the station from the previous review more than once, because in addition to the work in general I want to highlight the differences between the "new" version and the "old one".

The traditional part in such reviews is about a parcel with organoleptic assessments under a spoiler.
Parcel





The body size is 156 mm long (150 mm body q two end panels), 87 mm wide, 39 mm height without legs or 44 mm with legs.


In total, I was sent "Sets 4" in the terminology of the store - in addition to the station and pens a la FX-9501 in the set includes three more stings (K, D16 and JL02) in the branded bags. The sting is no different and there have already been reviews on them, so I will not write about them. They work, calibrate, fall down.

What surprised me - there is a guide in the set! In Russian and English. Short, but informative. Really... From the old version of the controller 2.01. :) Well, sometimes the curve translation, sometimes not the description, and sometimes just missing the text (in the menu of temperature compensation cold sleeping Cool End). However, this is a positive development.
Guide


Before turning on, I would advise to check the build quality, because in the reviews at different stations there are interesting situations, up to the inserted pin in the connector, which led to a short circuit, touching the body from the inside.

I'll start with the pen. Collected it a little hastily, without twisting until the end of the GX12 connector, the plastic part rotates freely. Pike looks normal. Contacts are not isolated, and there are often fears that in this case the wiring may be shortened to the body at some body movements, or two contacts are short nearby. For some reason, the Chinese forget to install a large "Cambrick" which is included in the kit to the GX12 connectors (at least to my three, received from this store in other kits, included). It can be seen on the top connector. This cambrick is enough to isolate the wires from the hull. From closing two neighboring contacts, it will not save, but the backlash of contacts is not so large that with a similar ration, when the insulation rests on contact, there was a closure.
With a ration cartridge in the handle, too, not all is well. The pike is normal, but the wire is cleaned quite strongly, as a result, the screed fixes not the external insulation of the cable, but only the internal wires. This is a serious disadvantage for the product, which is constantly on the move.
To see the assembly from the inside, you need to disassemble the case. And then involuntarily you start to compare it with metal. You can immediately see the first difference - the front panel is glued with a stiletto, which closes and screws. To disassemble it will need to carefully pick it up with something sharp. The second difference - if the back panel is attached to the screws, which are twisted into metal sleeves on plastic halves, the front - on screws just in plastic.

Also, by attaching the end panels only at the corners when removing the power cord 220B the back panel is significantly bent, which undermines the impression of the "monolithic" of the case. There is no such feature with metal.

What's inside. Components - as promised, a new version of the BP and a fresh version of the controller. Connected to each other through connectors, with two, both on the controller, and on the BP. Both XH 2.54-type connectors with a maximum current of 3 A. Pad 220B with a fuse socket (set at 5 A) are also connected by a connector, but already more powerful (although the currents are noticeably smaller). The controller board is now attached not just for the encoder, the GX12 connector is falling into it, at the same time forming a second anchorage point. As a result, the "hardness" of the design here is better than in the previous version, but it is more difficult to remove the controller from the front panel. Either to plough the GX12, or to break the board on the holes, the benefit of this opportunity provided when tracing. The board of the power supply is attached to the body by two small screws (although there are four fastening holes), for which there are sleeves on the body.

Otherwise, no "snot" or "flop" is not noticed, the battery of the watch is present, connected by a small connector, fixed with glue directly to the bottom half of the case. It is also noticeable that the controller board is not fixed parallel to the front-facing plane. Well, and nipic - confused the colors of wires at the power connectors, black here "plus" and red "minus."
Photos of the insides




And then there is an oddity - back to connect the halves of the body can not, the top is already the bottom half about the thickness of the wall. Plus, I couldn't insert the top half into the front-panel notch, so I couldn't get the case back without cracks. I already wanted to pick up epithets about how you can make two identical details so crooked, and about "Chinese Cinderella", who managed to pull the shoe on the leg of his sister to combine the two halves of the body, but accidentally noticed the reason.

The reason is banal. The hull of the station inside is already than the power supply board. If the board has a size of 83.2 mm, the body inside by a millimeter is already - 82.2 mm. And when you insert a power supply, the plastic case just bursts to the sides.
Since the edges of the BP board do not contain tracks unlike the old one (it has thin strips of grounding at the edges, in order to ground the body), boldly take the nadophile and grind the "side" board to the white stripes of silkscreen. As a result, we get a dimension of 82.0 mm, and the board easily gets up in the body without deformation. By the way, the metal body board quietly enters without a rest.

It would seem that the "hurrah" halves of the body are now perfectly combined. Yes, but the problem of mismatch between the two halves of the case and the notch under them on the front panel remained. Plus interferes with the shoulder on the front panel (even when I took out all the boards, the case because of it did not converge). It should be carefully cut with a scalpel. But even without it, just to collect the body back still does not work, you have to press, pull and make other efforts to the body converged. Alas, the corps is "out of the place."

Impressions from the station as a whole


It's time to turn on the station. First, no handle. What can be noted immediately from the changes:

  • The beeper's squeak is much quieter and not annoying, as in the previous version of the controller;
  • The screen is much brighter (the glass is not so dark);
  • Watch... Do not work, every time starts from 00:00 (complete battery planted at zero);
  • ERROR message without a connected soldering iron hangs steadily, no phantom temperature readings;
  • viewing angles are worse because the screen is noticeably deeper behind the glass.
Under the spoiler you can see a comparison of the angles of the station and mine in a simple metal case.
Viewing angles



The rest of us has the same version of firmware 2.10 and the version of iron 2.1S, menu and management are no different (I think there is no point in repeating more than once here described). The encoder works clearly.
With a connected soldering iron at the station, the temperature readings are a little dancing. This is especially noticeable in standby mode, which I put at 120 degrees Celsius. If the previous station readings almost do not move, only occasionally slips 121, then here constant dances 120-122, sometimes 123 slips. The same is the same in the mode of maintaining the working temperature, although there is already a "amplitude" of only 2 degrees. On animation you can compare the behavior of stations, from above old, from below new.

And the dances are not connected with the control algorithm, they can be seen in the absence of food on the regret, when it cools down to the temperature of the standby mode. And the lower the temperature, the more noticeable it starts at about 200 degrees. Periodically, the temperature jumps back up, although should only decrease. This is not the case at the old station.
It has nothing to do with the sting or the BP, because I was swapping places and stinging, and I was connecting the BP from my station. It was also unplored and grounded. The picture is always the same, i.e. the reason is somewhere in the controller.

Purely outwardly, you can also notice that the frequency of screen updates at stations is different (different bands-artifacts from the camera sensor). The firmware controllers should be identical, so perhaps the screens themselves differ.

I didn't notice any other differences. Overregulation when heated is about the same (at 250 degrees Celsius, the sting is heated up to 256-257 degrees Celsius), the warm-up time is also. At least, I did not see any noticeable differences in the work of two stations with the same sting.

The input voltage of the new board measures more accurately (my BP output is 25 B, and the old controller understates the readings to 24.7 B). Plus, the new BP voltage is still slightly higher - 25.7 B (coinciding with the readings of the multimeter), i.e. on the sting of about 82 W power instead of the estimated 72 W at a regular voltage of 24 B.

Let's move on to the most interesting, in my opinion. Let's look at the BP and the controller, comparable to the old versions.

Power supply


I'll start with the power supply board. Initially, according to the photo, it looks better than the old one, at least there are more radiators, more input capacity (68 mcF vs. 2 x 222 mcF), output filter with throttle to suppress pulsations with straightener, and not synphasic to suppress synphasic interference from the transformer. Even like there was an additional filtering Y-capacitor with the minus of the high voltage straightener on the ground.

I did not study this BP closely before buying photos and was very positive about it, even though there are a couple of reviews about the burned stabilizer TL431 on such a block. Honestly, looking at it alive, the positive has decreased.
Power supply board


What I didn't like:

1) The "additional" Y-capacitor near the high-voltage electrolyte turned out to be inter-winding. It connects the cons of high voltage and low-voltage parts. Only stands somehow very far from the low-voltage part - inter-winding it is obtained due to the fact that minus the output is grounded, and this capacitor is included between minus the high-voltage capacitor and the ground. But his vocation is to shorten the synphase interference from pulses in the transformer just from going back to the entrance key. Usually it is put close to the exit, and even separate legs slotted, which is not here. The picture shows how it is connected. By the way, in the review Akinava cut the track to minus the exit to make a "soft" grounding sting through the resistor. But it turns out that by this he practically excluded the inter-obbomatic capacitor from the filtering of synphase interference from the pulsed transformer. And he had to cut the track-jumper near the thermostoror, there and the holes are ready.

2) The radiator of the straightening twin diode shotka. It does not just "climb" on the high-voltage part, it is on the one hand installed over a wide range connecting the secondary winding and diode, and on the other a little climbs on the track of 300 B with a smoothing high-voltage capacitor. And if there are slots between the low-voltage part and the high voltage on the board to improve the dielectric properties, then there are only two layers of mask covering the circuit board between the 300B and the secondary winding. I don't think the slits on the board are going to save me. :)

By the way, in the process of searching for information on the network on power supplies accidentally came across an article from the magazine Radio (No. 6 2017, author I. Goncharenko, text)about filtering interference in impulse sources. I can't tell you how much it's 100% right, but it's very informative about the interference, where they come from, and how they are filtered by throttles-capacitors. Unless the output filter is considered.

What this BP is based on. If we believe the markings, then in front of us version under the number 2.04 (indeed, in the previous photos, for example, there were no slots on the textolite or capacitor Y1, i.e. the version is clearly not the first). This is a typical reverse-moving pulse BP with voltage stabilization on TL431, input capacitor 68 microf x 400 B (which is not enough for the stated maximum power of 24 B x 5 A q 120 W), output LC filter of two capacitors on 1000 mcF x 35 W and dross between them. Additionally, one ceramic capacitor at the exit. It is operated by the well-known CR6842S SHIM controller. And if you look closely - before us the twin of the cheaper "people's" BP on the same SHIM controller. And by the draw of the board, the variant clone is two voltages, for example, 24 B and 5 B, when the linear converter of the type L7805 is responsible for the smaller one. Just under the form factor 83 x83 mm. Even the radiators are similar. That's just the people clearly separated high-voltage and low-voltage parts.
It would be interesting to compare transformers. As I understand it, they are in this scheme determine the maximum power that is able to give BP.

A significant difference - the people's BP input capacitor 82 mcF x 400 B, not 68 mcF. Also in the browsered block, the output stabilizer divider is set not on 24 B, but on 25.23 V. Plus did not break the linear converter for the second voltage (by the way, it should have a condenser on the exit, but there is no place on the board under it, the exit of the linear converter is simply directly displayed on the exit connector - the yellow line on the photo).
Bp's schematics coincide with the national and other implementations in a similar form factor. You can see it in the kirich review. The only difference from the concept there is the NTC resistor, which restricts the starting current from the 220B network is disintegrated after the diode bridge, not in front of it (in the national it is located similarly). Also changed some denominations: installed "wrong" 22 microfs x 50B electrolyte instead of 33 mcF in the power chain SHIM, smaller denominations of resistors R5, R9, R6. The resistor R19 is also a little less denomination, 2.2 kOm, and it determines the increased output tension relative to the "people's". But here is a dual diode MBRF20200CTG at 20 A and 200 B, with a good supply of voltage (pulses on it can reach 110-130 B). If I didn't make a mistake, I took into account all the changes regarding the "people's" in this scheme.

So the behavior of BP can be expected to be the same as in the review. Except that the pulsation is a little more, because the input capacity is understated.

If we talk about the differences from the old version of the BP for the soldering station, the new there is no protective varist at the entrance, the interference X-capacitor stands in front of the throttle, not after. The diode of the Shottka stands in the shoulder of 25 B, and not in the sub-zero tire, the inter-winding capacitor binds two minus tires among themselves, and not minus 300 B with 25 V. The Earth is immediately wound to minus the exit. Also here is a slightly simpler strapping TL431 and a weekend ordinary throttle instead of synphase.

Of course, I checked the BP under the same conditions as the old version at my station. That is, in the conditions of the power supply for constant load 1 A, 3 A and 4 A.

The first test is heating. The board was installed in the case without a front panel, the thermopa is pressed to the screw of the diodes of the Shottka D2 on the side of the radiator. Due to the larger size of the radiators, the heating is slower. If the old BP in 15 minutes reached 120 degrees, here the heating was 111 degrees Celsius for the same time. But it didn't stop. The same 120 degrees radiator reached in 21.5 minutes. And, as in the past BP, the temperature continued to rise. The radiator is very close to the transformer and high-voltage capacitor, and in theory warms as much as possible these elements (the transformer also warms decently). I would not risk using this BP on load 4 A in a closed case (if not covered with a "cover", the radiator temperature is 10-12 degrees lower).

If the load is reduced to 3 A, the temperature drops to 110-111 degrees. Similarly, with a cold start with a load of 3 A the temperature stabilizes at this value (after 67 minutes), in total the run in a closed case with a load of 3 A was 1 hour 40 minutes, the temperature slowly drifted by 1 degree: 110-111-110, etc.

In this test there was another unpleasant moment in the case - plastic very unpleasant stinks when heated. And from the inside. Due to the design of the transformer and the radiator here are close to the top cover, after the test the body even lightly burned the hand, and when I removed the top half of the case, felt a sharp and unpleasant smell of plastic.

What about the ripples. To make the results similar, I connected the oscillograph with the same complete probe as in the last review, but immediately correctly, having made a "spring" for earth contact. There are two weekend capacitors here, you can measure the pulsations of the C11 electrolyte, that on ceramic C20. The measurements were carried out by the INstrustar ISDS-220B USB oscillograph, connected to a battery-powered laptop. Oscillograms under the cat to save space.

First, pulsation on a high-voltage capacitor. Since they are directly dependent on capacity, the value is quite expected. At 4 A load they are about 45 B. I remind you that the old BP before its rework with a total capacity of 44 mcF they were 60 B, and after rework with a capacity of 96 mcF became 27 B. Addiction direct.
Signal on 400 In capacitor at 4 A load

With a load of 3 A pulsation here 36 V. I wondered in the last review, but has not yet found an answer. How to assess the validity of pulsations? On the idea of a valid sink through a capacitor, but I have not found methods to check it. Except to dip the shunt on a few mom sequentially and measure the tension on it by the same oscillograph. I would be happy if someone in the comments will give an answer.

Consumption from the network 220 B at this BP is slightly less than that of the old, 0.81 A at load 4 A and 0.61 A at 3 A vs. 0.84 A and 0.63 A at the old.

Then the pulsations on the way out. Let's start with idling - a traditional saw with an amplitude of about 110 mV and a frequency of 130 Hz.
Exit OF BP in idle course

For the assessment under load filmed two oscillograms, 200 megasamples per second to register the HF bursts and 10 or 1 megasample for low (looking where the form is visible better). I will say at once that despite the spring, the probe still catches the HF bursts of ether, because the pulsations are highly dependent on the point of shooting. And the real value is probably less.

The shape of the signal is the same, so I'll give the splash values and the shape of the signal for maximum load. Only the frequency of HF bursts differs, from 58 kHz at 1 A to 66 kHz at 4 A.

Load 1 A - pulsations of 53 mV (HW) and 14 mV (HF).

Load 3 A - pulsations of 77 mV (HW) and 47 mV (HF).

And the load of 4 A - pulsations of 95 mV (HF) and 49.5 mV (HF).
Exit OF BP at load 4 A


The pulsations here are lower than that of the old BP before the rework and slightly higher than that of the converted old one. And both the HF and the Low.s. I will not compare it with "people's" because it would be nice to measure it on the same "stand".

But the signals of the new BP have two features. The first is the frequency of "sinesoid" HF near the kilohertz. If in the old BP you could see the same 100 Hz as on a high-voltage capacitor, here the picture is different. And the second. At about 110-120 Hz the sineoid is smoothed out, and the signal shape becomes like this (load graph 3 A).

To be honest, I don't know how to explain it, what resonant frequencies and processes affect it. The load is purely resistive (resistors are halogens), so it's not about her.

I do not remember where, but in one description I saw the parameters that the pulsations of such a block are no more than 200 mV. If we start from this value, the power supply withstands the promised with a reserve.

What conclusions can be drawn. The power supply again at a heavy load can not be closed in the case without ventilation. But because the station works in pulse mode and the maximum power develops only a few seconds, overheating is not terrible. Of course, I would like to see here the entrance capacitor as in the folk, at 82 mcF, especially as they are the same size 18x25 mm. You can also add ceramics to the output, and you can increase the electrolytes (the place also allows). And I would still change the output connector and C11, which is more correct in topology and should reduce the interference a little bit.

Of the downsides - yet I do not like the location of Y1 and the radiator. And you can notice that on previous versions of the same BP radiator diod Shottka was turned 180 degrees, and at least did not climb on the track with 300B. I would "cut" the radiator a little bit in the part climbing on the high voltage side, you can also raise it on the board for 1-2 mm. By the way, I will be glad if the comments say if there is any soil under my concerns about the radiator.

Controller board


Actually, the most interesting thing for which I started the review, left for last. I propose to assess what changes the store controller has made in 2019.

A general view of the controller installed.
The flux is not washed away, the right photo part with the connector can be separated from the main board of the controller (this decision was seen before). And the controller has six contacts for the connector, i.e. the board is designed to connect JBC sting (but with a mistake, see more). There are contacts for the thicker power wires on the controller's own board. The left side of the parts are not crucified: n-channel MOSFET's z3/4 to control the pump and valve of the tin pump and the D3/D4 protective diodes of the same chains, also not installed connectors to connect the pump/valve. At the bottom of the left, the seat is still under the two-contact connector - it's external power for the pump and the valve of the tin pump (GND, VCC), i.e. they can now be soaked from a separate source or other voltage through the DC-DC converter. Plus, of course, the main change - an impulse source of secondary nutrition.

To dismantle it is required to unploate the GX12 soldering connector (by the way, it is not so easy to do, the landfill is very large, and on both sides of the board, but to our happiness on the opposite side of the contact areas are connected to the landfill "bridges"). Now you can consider the fee in detail.
Close-up controller board


Almost all the elements are installed on one side. With the reverse only quartz and, of course, the display board and encoder. The controller diagram mostly repeats last year's version, including the numbering of items. I made changes to the scheme (hopefully not wrong anywhere).

The list of changes:
  1. 1) The power scheme is built on the JW5026pulse converter. At the same time, she lost her entrance diode and protective suppressor on the 3.3 B line.
  2. 2) A faster processor of the 103rd STM32F103CBU6 series (up to 72 MHz vs. 48 MHz on the old controller) is installed in a variant with a large flash memory (128KB vs. 64KB).
  3. 3) Another OPA336N.
  4. 4) The battery power scheme has been changed.
  5. 5) Added a second key on the z4 to control the tin pump valve.
  6. 6) Power pump and tin pump valve is now external.
  7. 7) R10 Restop replacement with three separate resistors R13, R16, R17.
  8. 8) Removed jumper to connect JBC sting.
I also don't understand the type of transistor used, the z2, which controls the MOSFET power supply on the soldering iron. Originally in the scheme was the NPN transistor S9013W, but it is marked "J3" (including in lots on Ali), and here on the body marking ARDV 15. On Ali under this marking sell AO3422 - n-channel pole. In the previous version of the controller, in theory, there is the same transistor. I am also confused by the fact that the base or shutter of this transistor is connected to the output of the microcontroller without any current-limiting resistor.

The board was designed in pieces or something, but there are two capacitors C1, C2, and two resistors R1, R2 and R3. :) The elements of the secondary power source are marked mixed with the main circuit.

I suggest you take a walk through the major changes. The secondary source is now built on JW5026 instead of a linear converter. The scheme is taken from the date, only at the entrance there is a much larger capacitor 100 mcF. The point is to replace, in theory, in reducing the heating of the chip (on the old controller it warms up to 55 degrees), or to stop possible problems with the secondary, which were met on separate batches of controllers of older versions. The JW5026 controller is designed for current up to 1A and input voltage up to 40 B, options with reserve. Conversion rate 1.1 MHz with efficiency up to 93%. But with efficiency one nuance. The current consumption is no more than 30 mA (I judge by the old controller), and according to the schedule of the documentation in this case, the efficiency is below 40%. The pulsations on the output correspond to the stated, no more than 20 mV, the conversion rate too. Here is a graph of the secondary at the load of the main BP constant 3 A.
But at the same time "straight areas" for some reason are replaced by either single emissions, or modulated by a sinusoid with a frequency of about 90 kHz. Whether it is related to the method of shooting (filmed with C2, but it is very small for dense touch) or in the scheme somewhere there is excitement, I can not say. I tried a lot of times, always one picture. Even connected the controller to 6 lithium AKB in order to get a stable 25 B at the entrance, but the graph remained the same. Unless some impulses have disappeared, but they are already, most likely, just a tip on the probe.

By the way, datechi recommends for stability and less pulsations on the way out and for 3.3 In putting 10 mcF ceramic capacitor, I'm not sure that here it is, most likely remained shallow by 0.1 mcF.

Another tangible change is that OPA336N is installed instead of the precision OU, which has worse parameters than the previously standing SGM8551XN. Perhaps this is the reason for the slight drift of the sting temperature readings.

And then the gags began. I can't find another word.

Instead of a jumper to connect the jable JBC laid the resistor R11 with zero resistance. And made the sixth contact for the single-row XH 2.54 connector on the controller board for the JBC sting connection scheme, meaning it is assumed that the R11 falling turns the T12 connection scheme into JBC. Yes, the tracing was wrong, and the resistor, instead of being installed between the 1 and 6 contact connector XH 2.54 to connect the soldering iron, is installed just on the way to the entrance of the OU. And the fall of the resistor will lead to the inability to control the temperature in principle. :) The yellow image shows the return track on the opposite side of the board. Accordingly, to rework in support of JBC will have, for example, to drill a hole indicated by the red arrow in order to break the jumper (the idea expressed by Sdoro in the comments to the last review).

Remember, the station did not work hours, because the battery was planted to zero (it was in the area of 0.5 B)? This is the second joke. I double-checked, but it turns out that the backup battery power now goes through the stabilizer, included as a diode. At the same time, it is worth another stabilizator, through which the entrance of the MK VBAT is served at 3.3 B from the secondary. This is practiced when there is no battery power (although MK does not require it), and in general, it is not a big deal, if not one "but". Parallel to the entrance of VBAT hung the resistor 10 kOm! It increases the current consumed by the battery by about 100 times (STM32 consumes no more than 2.2 microns at worst). According to my estimates, the CR2032 battery will be completely in 1-2 months, no more. Instead of working for a few years.

I don't really understand the meaning of the decision. Stabilizitron does not open with the touches of several microamps? Under its marking W2 fit B'T52 either at 2.7, or at 3.0 B. I would understand if instead of a resistor there was a protective diode, somewhere on 3.3 V. For example, the suppressor PESD3V3L1BA, which stands on the previous version of the controller on the entire secondary power chain. Anyway, if you're using a battery, I'd just dump two stabilizrons and a resistor in your place, replacing the stabilizer D6 with a jumper. The direct battery connection to the STM32 works great as well.

Finally, the connector layout. Power can be powered both through XH 2.54 and through VCC/GND contacts on the main controller board. There are now three double-contact connectors for the tin. One per pump and valve, as well as external power pump and valve. In the simplest case you need to close the VCC power connector on the VCC power board controller, the benefit of the connection points is enough. The GND findings have already been combined.


Conclusions


The main innovation at the stations in 2019 is the new controller. It works, but the board is error-making. You will need to refine the battery-powered power scheme, at a minimum. And for the tin pump you will need to unpack 4 missing elements. The controller cannot be adapted to support JBC without irreversibly cutting the track or drilling the transition hole. Of the advantages - a more powerful processor, which has more volume of flash memory, who likes third-party or their firmware, will appreciate. Installed OU with the worst parameters, but it is completely interchangeable with the previous version, so that if necessary, you can plough and chip OU. Overall the feeling is that done but not checked. I'd try to find an original diagram with an impulse source to understand where the bugs' feet are growing. So far, only the original diagram of the DC-DC converter under this controller, there, by the way, the input diode for protection from over-tampering is specified. Whether the advantage is the replacement of a linear source of secondary voltage on impulse, I do not know. Whether it somehow affects the accuracy of temperature, I can not say.

Whether the firmware is the same for controllers, I'm also not ready to approve 100%. The seller says yes. The CPU's potential may be used at a higher frequency, perhaps some of the algorithm's coefficients are different.

The power supply is assembled according to the typical scheme, as well as the people's. Of the positive - less pulsation relative to the old, more radiators, but the question whether or not climbs the radiator diod Shottka on the "hot" part of the board, for me is open. At the same time, the denominations of elements in the people's BP are better than here. Also, THE BP is not optimal for wiring the output filter, and about the optimal location of the inter-shoe capacitor, I'm also not sure (it was not in the first versions, as if "stuck" where it turned out, already later). It should also be taken into account that the grounding in it is set immediately on the minus exit.

Well, the plastic body is expected to be inferior in all metal. Because of the difficulties with the coincidence of its parts with each other, I would not recommend it, except that there will be a super profitable offer in such a case.


All in all, I tried to describe all my impressions without embellishment. If any additional information is interesting, write in the comments that I can see, check, test - I will. While I still have plans to test the effect of the type of OU on temperature accuracy and try to connect the controller to 3.3 B through a linear converter, will there be a difference.

UPDATE of July 7: Battery power fix.

Got to the measurements of battery consumption in the original scheme and with the recommended alteration, as it was on the board last year (and in the date). Alteration:
Remove R10, D6, D7;
We install a jumper in place of the D6.

Battery consumption drops more than 190 times! From 257 mcA to 1.31 mcA. The clock is coming, the battery is not eating, beauty.
By the time of rework, he got a new multimeter, but forgot to take them to the evidence "before." :)

That is, it is real that with the conditional capacity of CR2032 in 230-240 mAh the original scheme "sucks" the battery in about 1.5 months (roughly, taking into account the fact that the current will fall when the voltage drops).



The item is provided for the store's review. The review is published in accordance with section 18 of the site's Rules.
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  • u3712
  • June 21, 2019, 11:37 p.m.
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+1
No, this controller didn't seem to be sent to anyone else for review.
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+5
Since you can't publish more links on p.18, I'll make comments. In Ali's vast expanse, I found two more reincarnations of this BP in the 83 x83 mm form factor. First,the WX-24-T12 looks like from a folk BP manufacturer, but it's unclear what kind of capacitor there is at the entrance, 82 or 68 mcF. But the inter-winding is more familiar and the radiator of the Diod Shotka though climbs on the hot part, but does not seem to reach the track. And the second - the same circuitry, but with small radiators. But the input capacitor 82 mcF and there is room for additional refinement of both the input network filter and the output LC filter. So there are still options to choose from.
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interested me BP on the first link WX-24-T12, quite not bad parameters declared by the store: 220 In DC 24 In 6A Max 7.5A 150 W.
I still want to collect in a metal case from a soldering station a small universal BP.
This BP would have been more than.

Who cares, found this BP on Tao
The price is so ridiculous - $3.79, well, delivery, but it's still cheaper than $10.63
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+1
Lie. :) It's the same people's bp, Kirich has his review here. Even the elegants look like from one warehouse. It's just that the wiring, imho, is better than the one overlooked.

If I were you, I'd take a more power-and-radiator option, like 36B, which is trans-powerful. But the height - only on the "floor" of the hlrpus put, in the laundry for the profile. But you can lay a thermo-harvest and the body to take away the heat will become a little.
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+2
Это тот же народный бп, у Кирича здесь его обзор есть.

everything can be;-).
And if it's the same "people's" BP, so it gives 6A gives out, Kirich checked in the review
I'm exactly the form factor of the board to like, just under the metal body
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+2
Yes, that's him. It's the same 6A as here. It's a 100-w power supply. He's got 5 A in the review, but with a pulsation of 0.8 B, doesn't that??

And in the enclosure without a fan so only from strength to 3A drive. In closed, it overheats, or rather, heats capacitors above the maximum 105 degrees. The weekend diode I had up to 122 heated at 4A, and did not stop to warm up. Only at 3A heating is stable to 110 degrees and does not grow. In a closed enclosure.
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it I know in such a body a powerful BP does not collect
thought at 24-36B and up to 3A
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0
And if you get bored, then take the power cable from the BP to the control board, disconnect it from the corrugated, turn backwards on the front and paste back. Because of the highest level of thought of this Chinese marriage, the red wire becomes a minus, and a black plus.
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It should be moved pins. XH 2.54 has a key, just don't rearrange it. The maximum you can, pull off the body of the pope and set back, turning 180 degrees. But then he can start to fly off the contacts on his own.

And I watched other photos, there with the color of the wires were not confused. :)
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I don't understand, i.e. someone sent a normal cable and properly drunk.
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Well, I don't know which side it's right to get it, it's symmetrical. :)
And the fact that there is the right color of wires, can be seen in the photo in the lot of the store. I just don't know if any of the buyers with this combination of colors were sent.
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  • Sonny
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:08
0
Looked closely at your photos, right Nikitos's!!!
Take the power cable from the BP to the control board, disconnect it from the corrugated, turn backwards on the front and paste back.
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:25
+4
No matter how you deploy, the correctness of the connection will remain, only the color of the wires will change. Take a closer look.
In one option, plus - red, in the second - black, but in both versions the first contact of the board BP always gets on the second contact of the control board.

just as you can fix the bug if black is a plus, just reconnect the connectors.
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Heh, and I didn't notice that the connectors aren't on one side. Indeed, the colors change if the ends of the wire are replaced.
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0
Dear, tell me, what is the temperature of what the icon shows at the bottom on the screen? Recently assembled the station on the STC and the temperature reaches 55 degrees during the long operation.
Find out more
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  • qu1ck
  • 22 июня 2019, 01:00
+3
This is the temperature of cold sleeping (according to the idea in the firmware). In normal stations there is a thermosensor in the handle, separate from the thermopapa of the stinger itself. It is used to compensate for the effect of the ambient temperature on the main heat plate of the stinger, which makes it possible to more accurately calculate the real temperature of the stinger itself.
In many STC stations, this sensor is not in the handle and instead take readings from the internal probe of the ingestion, which shows the average temperature of the hospital, so that it can be ignored.
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  • Tolchi
  • December 1, 2019, 02:39
0
yes, it looks like it shows the temperature of the ing0. For good, it is necessary to refine the scheme with the firmware and display the sensor not even in the handle, as all for some reason do, and outward, having drilled a hole in the bottom of the case. Under the natural convection will show the real temperature of the room, thereby faster and more accurately performing thermocompensation.
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  • mrBrown
  • 01 декабря 2019, 04:24
0
For some reason, everyone is put in a pen... Probably then, to measure the temperature of the cold ends of the thermopa (this is the place where the thermopara itself connects to the copper wires), rather than the temperature in the room.
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  • AlexST77
  • 04 декабря 2019, 07:24
0
To measure the temperature, you need the temperature inside the sting cap. Because we get the heat-pressure sting difference, and you need to add the temperature of the cold heptaya, not the room.
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  • Xylene
  • 22 июня 2019, 00:28
-6
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+4
Of course, this is a typical station. But the convenience of rations is more of a stinger defined. The station only manages it. T12 is a little better with the transmission of the sting temperature to the station.
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Finally, a normal view to the station T12, albeit from p.18)), thanks for parsing the scheme and readings from the oscillograph.

In general, every time reading about this station I can't stop being surprised by the "collective" implementation... Well, everything is crooked, it feels like it was developed by Chinese pioneers)).

When I thought about assembling a more modern station to replace Goot, he considered T12. As a result, I collected Unisolder, and reading the reviews on the musk on the station T12 understand that it was a very correct decision)))
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Here is a store version of the board, it differs from the developer's version. This time I came out with gags. The past is working well.
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  • CTAHOK
  • 22 июня 2019, 00:36
+1
The review is written thoroughly, for which yu. Thanks for the information about the novelty.
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  • slav1k
  • 22 июня 2019, 00:56
0
What about this station with the heating of large landfills and tires? The old ones have a problem with that.
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and what is globally different in this station from 2.0-2.0S-2.1S?
in principle NOTHING
firmware and scheme (behind small, not principled changes) are the same.

I use quality stingers with black spray from SUHAN and zuoo for rations.
I don't recommend using the jola Xger.
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+4
With a axe, I could snout the d-pak mosfet off the mother, warming the butt. :)
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  • dgin
  • 22 июня 2019, 13:35
-1
Why should plastic be warmed?
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0
What are you talking about?
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  • dgin
  • 22 июня 2019, 13:47
-1
warming the butt. :)
The end is plastic.
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0
SMD field transistor's end
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+3
The toret of the pad, which he is covered in the fee. :)
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  • slav1k
  • 22 июня 2019, 12:52
0
Can you link to the right stings? Does black spray make any sense other than design?
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about black stings already written in the review
there are also links to stores in the comments
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By the way, the Xger one JL02 stinger is not calibrated. The one that has a tension between power and the ground when heated is like a battery. There's a bad contact there. In general, I disassembled my three stings, bought 11.11, all have no welding, only the press of wire petals from the contact rings.

In one review I saw a lifehack, I can't check everything. A thin copper wire is taken, the contact is compressed as much as possible around the wire, and then on top of it all is wrapped with wiring, like a thread. The author argues that contact becomes sufficient and the problem of maintaining the temperature or calibration disappears. You can also drink acid this case, only wash it later. Maybe I'll get to my JL02, so now there are two of them. :)

PS: soon come the non-snake sting in bags of Hakko with Ali. :) Did not know about the sale, three weeks ago ordered a couple, which is not enough for ration, as practice has shown ...
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Еще можно с кислотой пропаять это дело

It's not a good idea. White plastic is very light-flammable, and wire-contact is very bad to get even with acid (honestly with orthophosphoric did not try, soldering acid-containing active flux).
if you bother with the ration, it is better to disassemble the whole block with contacts, to fill, to collect on a new and to drink.
as for me, it's best to point weld
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Well, if I try, I'll say no. The comrade did not solder, just wrapped tightly.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июня 2019, 14:46
0
Orthophosphoric was easy to miss. You don't have to warm for a long time and the plastic will be intact.
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0
also, only Ortophosphora turned out to be a snug.
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  • Serg32
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:15
0
And what soldering tweezers will fit to this station?
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+3
I'm not sure there's tweezers. It controls only one temperature, two separate heaters it can not pull.
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0
Haven't they met Ali?
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  • Multik
  • 22 июня 2019, 18:36
0
It's often a kind of fakes...
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+2
And the KSGER super-duper quality?
And how much sting has passed through your hands and your soldering station?

In my experience, SUHAN and ZUICKO are better than KSGER, especially SUHAN with black spray
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The temperature should be overstated.
And so I dismantled the GX12 with my station with a large drop of tin in the center to heat five legs at once. It's a go.

But it all depends on the sting and power, and they are not different between versions.
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  • slav1k
  • 22 июня 2019, 12:11
0
That's what I do. But buying a station with the temperature of the sting, you expect that such methods will be a thing of the past. But no.
About the power saw a post where the author fed the station from the laboratory. According to him, only at the start it consumes 2A, and then - no more than 1A. Apparently it's so clogged in the firmware.
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No, just if the stinger feeds the current 2 or more amps, it will split and turn red. BP does not issue peak consumption. Here SHIM is powered by 3A, a percentage of the maximum power the station displays on the right at the top.

In order to warm up the landfills, you need, in theory:
- the great heat capacity of the sting and the power of the heater
- great contact with the landfill (to give heat)
Measuring the temperature of the sting at the point of contact

T12 of course faster sees the cooling of the sting, but the pause is palpable. Rising temperatures just compensate for the slow reaction. In theory, the bust mode is for this purpose.

It would be better to behave JBC sting. But it's a different price tag. And the sting at Curie Point is on the idea even faster, but again, there is no exact data on how much the temperature drops to allow the ferromagnetic to regain its properties to start heating. Someone wrote about the properties of materials that 40-90 degrees of decline is necessary for magnetic properties to recover (again, how much have recovered, the question is).

T12 responds better to temperature changes than the Chinese 900. At least the conder from the mother I fell off without much trouble, the main thing is to dial solder for a larger area of contact sting-polygon.
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  • wwest
  • November 6, 2019, 5:00 p.m.
0
It's not a station that's a stinger T-12 cartridge!
Depends on the copper section of the sting itself.
You cartridge at least a constant current will never feed it in the landfill 70w will not give.
If PID could increase the voltage on the T-12 cartridge to 30in then another conversation.
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  • xed8
  • 22 июня 2019, 01:06
+1
Excellent, thorough review, thank you!
And are there any more successful (perhaps even older) variants of the station, so that improvements are not required or there was a minimum?
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А есть ли какие-то более удачные (возможно даже старее) варианты станции

eat on Tao
2.1S fee designed by the author, not the store
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+1
I wonder what kind of OU is there...
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0
as in the 2.0 s06ac (SGM8551XN)
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+1
By the way, noticed that the photo is from different boards? At the bottom there is no tantale on the output of LDO and the elements are otherwise standing.
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Кстати, заметил, что фото от разных плат?

It's board 2.0, look closely at the display connector, it's 6 pin
and where there's a link to Tao, there's a 2.1S version of the board, a 4 pin display connector
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I can see that. :) I thought it was like another photo from the same lot to show.
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0
Good review, well-deserved
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  • Z2K
  • 22 июня 2019, 02:08
+1
"Of the advantages is a more powerful processor that has more flash memory,"
What's the plus of that? What gives a higher frequency? Does any setting change what it affects? No problem. This is no advantage. Just MK compatible and have fallen new, which is already more common.
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+1
For custom firmware plus. There are alternative developments.
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With a built-in Tetris, or a 3D shooter? Well, even for them it is not quite clear what exactly gives such modernization.
Rather, I agree with the opinion above that, most likely, just wholesale prices for the new iron were lower than the old and cost reduction - the only advantage.
WS: and the review is generally good, thank you.
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For a particular station yes, it doesn't seem, the more that on Tao, judging by the photo, in general 101st stands.

But for the guys who do their firmware, it can be a plus. For example, a friend wrote that he had a much faster sting survey cycle in his firmware, a much faster job with an encoder, a rendering of a menu.

And if you add control of JBC sting, for which the frequency of the poll temperature should be an order of magnitude (or more) higher than here now, then there will be no extra megahertz. :) This controller overheats the JBC sting very much, does not have time to read the temperature (the cycle is very slow). They wrote in comments to Sancho's review.
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  • Sdoro
  • 22 июня 2019, 20:02
+1
This controller overheats the JBC sting very much
That's where you're, to put it mildly, wrong! If we talk about the average temperature of stabilization, the controller (or rather the entire heat system) is absolutely purple what a sting. And the frequency of the survey of the sting (and it is really strongly understated) affects only the temperature variance, while the average temperature still holds near a given point.
If, of course, by saying "overheating" you meant to over-regulate (increased instant heating), then yes, there is a place to be, but it does not affect the wear of the sting.
And my practice of working with dozens of different stings JBC and T12 confirms the above.
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Yes, it is overregulation. In the past, comments have been that jbc overheats more than 50 degrees when leaving the stand-up. As a result, to keep the temperature requires a more frequent survey, otherwise the temperature jumps too much relative to the set. Someone wrote about the refinement that jbc he has with the accuracy of 1 or 2 degrees during the ration is supported, and with the original version strongly jumps.
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  • Sdoro
  • 22 июня 2019, 22:18
0
Yes, you're absolutely right here. By the way, while fiddling with these controllers, I adapted the firmware from ptdreamer to the version of the HW2.0 board. There, too, is not all rosy, the code is not "dolazan", SHIM prevents correctly measuring the temperature on the regret ...
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+1
And you can not run there in parallel, separately poll, separately SHIM? JBC does not have a problem, the thermopara is separate from the heater.
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  • Sdoro
  • 22 июня 2019, 22:44
0
It is possible, moreover, there the survey goes continuously, and when you need to measure the temperature just stops the timer SHIma and waits for the cycle of 10 measurements to end. Then the timer starts again On jbc I will try, of course, but the task is to make a universal controller with acceptable and convenient adjustment.
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+2
Hmm, and if just two branches do, one measures the temperature, the other controls the SHIM. Either synchronize the measurements so that there are no measurements at the applied voltage, or throw out all the maximum readings. It is unlikely that the sting will cause such EDS that the LED will light up, i.e. the left values with the ADC can always be weeded out. There's also probably also an input filter to average readings. First or second order, but I don't remember these formulas very well. :) The last time he was in control was in 2007. :)
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  • Sdoro
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:20
0
No, there are no filters as such, the standard averaging mechanism: discard mines and max value and divide the amount remaining by 8. The fact is that we need to understand the causes of this phenomenon, and it can be a component of the cable, power tip (support ADC is just power), transition processes in the OU, something else. I'll figure out the perennial problem of finding time for a hobby.
And so already well invested in these STM32 controllers. For half a year bought a couple of controllers, a dozen stings, including one original, sorted out the thermodynamics of the heating process sting, looked alternative firmware ... Yes, a lot of things, I want to finish this question before the final of the :)
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  • Sdoro
  • 24 июня 2019, 00:31
+4
I chose the time after all, looked at the oscillograms on the OU. It turned out to be very simple: the Chinese completely lost their conscience, instead of a clone of OPA336 stuck some game. The blockage of the rear front at the exit of this ugliness WARNING... More than 2ms!!! No typo. It seems that instead of the lower shoulder of the exit cascade just stuck the resistor kilo Om a hundred. For the braked staff firmware it sometimes rolls, but if you jump temperature readings, then check the operating room, and better immediately change!
Expected after the replacement of the OU everything worked as it should.
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+1
Thank you. I wonder why the readings when cooling down jump. When food is not served.

Which one was replaced? I've ordered some Chinese precisions that were on last year's version.
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  • Sdoro
  • 24 июня 2019, 09:26
+1
Replaced by AD8605, when cooled on two controllers the temperature drops smoothly, no drops up. That's just Chinese censors I would strongly advise not: very likely get the same "miracle."
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Well, I assume that the "miracle" is on the board of 2018 in my station, and there with the temperature is just fine. :)

For 100 rubles can be checked.
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  • pleas
  • July 21, 2019, 5:20 p.m.
0
Put instead of one miracle OPA336 another Chinese miracle SGM8551 - the blockage of the rear front was gone, but the jump temperature became much stronger, immediately 5-10 degrees up.
Moreover, if earlier showed on the screen the temperature is higher than the real degrees by 30, then after the replacement began to show below degrees at 50 - on the screen 150, and on the regret of 200. On the other regret and at all at 70.
I realized that it used to be very good and brought the old miracle back.
And what else did I expect from the precision OU for 33 cents from aliexpres.
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Well the temperature difference is normal, now calibrated by the none jam, there is a difference of 60 degrees from the real. Thermopara in stings at the Chinese "as it turns out", gives very different values on different stings.

Is the temperature always jumping or at big values? What percentage shim shows?

And then the new stings in principle on the controller of 2018 crooked behave, for example. Until the hour 3 total at 350-400 warmed, the controller could not tame the shim, above 330 degrees jumps from 8 to 20 degrees, sometimes the message error. And still with a sharp set of temperatures, for example, from 200 to 400, at the end can go peddling. There was no such thing with the stings of the SSger, and there's some shit. Either the thermopara interferes in the contacts, there they are not compressed, and the propane. But like a bash on the bash should be on the scheme, if there is a thermods.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июля 2019, 15:43
0
The difference is normal, but when such a drastic change from a change of OU is not the same. I was afraid to calibrate, the station for calibration puts 450 degrees, if another 70 errors, will be for five hundred. I'm afraid.
Here's what was on the way out Chinese sgm8551.
On the left there should be a reinforced signal from the thermopar.
With OPA336 the picture is quite different.
Either the interference with somewhere faster OU catches, or the OU itself is wonderful.

Put as it was and calmed down on this, racing to 1-3 degrees, not as awful as it seemed to me, shim percent 5-15 does. On some stings can generally calm down and not move.
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And what is the frequency of pulses on the precision? If 1-1.1 MHz, it's traces of a pulsed source.

Do you make a plus mistake? Funny, I'm in the minus on the stings. The plus was only at 250 points. And at 450 about 415-420 on the regret.

By the way, something with the controller 2018. became, and the sting of the xger at a sharp jump to 450 can not calm, and before only one could not calibrate. Maybe where the earth fell off, I'll look.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июля 2019, 22:48
0
The comb frequency is 129kHz. Doesn't match anything. There's no such thing at the entrance. Maybe he was generating.
The stinger Xger (with the station has come) underheated degrees 30. But bought the stinger in the UG International Supply Store, on the packaging osSIEAO, the temperature at the tip is almost exactly the same as the station without calibration (5 degrees). And the contacts were already under-sold. However, without cons was not done - on some caps glued, carefully remove problematic.
These stings are being taught by the Chinese who are like a horazh. Lottery.
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It doesn't look like self-excitement. Falls straight back to zero? I can't open pictures on my tablet.

The maximum that corresponds to, double the frequency of the power supply shim, there is about 65 kHz it.

But the stings are just like that and came, not having warmed up creepy in me. And they don't calibrate normally. At first they were going to scatter at 330 degrees already. Only after a long work at a high temperature became more stable.
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+2
Thanks for the excellent and very detailed review.
In the older version of the station almost immediately burned power supply (V2.01 on the board), after which I, without going into details, replaced it with the first fit in power/size MeanWell, which was available in the store, and with the Chinese shook silicone mat and perhaps something else as compensation. At hand only such pictures, but if suddenly anyone is interested, I will try to find and photograph in more detail.

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+1
Oh, another one covered up. What's burned? You have 2.01, although regarding 2.04 I do not see any changes at all except the patch under the linear stabilizer.
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And the hell knows him, it wasn't up to him. Visually, only soot was found out of the damage, which in the second photo, as if the turns on the coil had been switched. In the afternoon I will find a fee and take a picture.
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+2
Or it can fix the ply case. :)
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But is it worth the sheepskin dressing, especially taking into account other shoals? I left it as a source of electronic component and radiators :)

Photos:
https://i.imgur.com/AUHRJz0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CU0fkNq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6IhKcdn.jpg
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+1
If it's free, why not? :) My BP doesn't have, by the way, a cut to discharge the containers at the entrance. In theory, they should be discharged through the straightener scheme, but I don't know how it happens there.
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+1
Free time is not infinite. For me, all this is also a hobby, and at some point I realized that I do not want to spend a lot of time on diagnostics and finishing the tool, and I want to use this tool primarily for their own "projects" and not to correct the shoals of the Chinese (and still risk.
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+2
It's a matter of priorities. :)
My colleague gave me a burnt linear BP, did not steam about the diagnosis, said that the transformer flew. I took the parts. It's trans. Now I'm thinking of fixing it.

In your BP, I'd just pop a throttle with S.H., call, turn it on through a light bulb. It works - so the rest is intact, you can replace two elements from the old comp BP.
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To do this, you need at least to have an unnecessary computer BP and time :)
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The throttle simply because of the poor quality should not puff.
The windings there are separated (separated) by the throttle hull partition.
Here you have to watch everything that stands after the throttle: a diode bridge, a network container and a power transistor...
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0
Wouldn't it heat up?
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Will not have time ))) What actually happened.
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nicely puffed;-)
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+1
There's still a feeling that the throttle. I don't know how the X conders burn. :)
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Throttle, he's the one. just why it flew out is not clear, maybe somewhere further along the scheme of the C.D.A.
to plough and at the time of inspection to put jumpers according to the scheme.
to turn on a light bulb, if the field and the diode bridge did not break through, the BP should earn
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It flew out at the time of the inclusion of BP, if the memory does not change.
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If there was a small pause between the switch and the switch, the tension could have jumped.
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yellow capacitor with soot is SX1 on the scheme, stands parallel to the entrance, and soot can be from the filter L1 - try to call its winding (in principle, you can replace it at all with jumpers), maybe there was a short and burned winding
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+1
Or put from an old computer bp, there at the entrance similar.
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  • Z2K
  • 22 июня 2019, 02:22
+1
"How to assess the admissibility of pulsations? In theory, the allowed to use the capacitor, but I have not found the methods of checking it."

The amount of voltage pulsations allowed, as well as the current is determined by the temperature of the capacitor. Some straighteners limit the pulsation to 30% of the nominal voltage. And the temperature exponentially affects the duration of preservation of the main parameters of the capacitor (just catastrophic dependence in overheating).
so you put two capacitors -- two cooling cases -- half the size of the ers. The output of power on one kondyuk is three times (theoretically four) less. And that's OK.
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+2
Thank you, but here the conders are still warming from the surrounding elements strongly ... At least 105 degrees are.

Just how to assess whether the capacitor works in the "tolerance" or not, knowing the parameters of the date and the shape of the signal, I do not know. :)
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  • Z2K
  • 22 июня 2019, 04:14
+1
"The conders are still warming from the surrounding elements strongly..." - understandably. Almost always like that. Das east plyojo :( (.
Here's just a fresh short article adjusted.
www.compel.ru/lib/ne/2019/6/7-kondensatoryi-panasonic-chast-1-alyuminiy
There's a good sign describing the types and a combination of parameters. Where one option is better - the other is worse - choose the right type. But the essence of such 85-105g - 2000-3000 hours of enduranze. :( The best solution (treatment of the problem) fan!..
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2) A faster processor of the 103rd STM32F103CBU6 series (up to 72 MHz vs. 48 MHz on the old controller) is installed in a variant with a large flash memory (128KB vs. 64KB).
I do not know what the old controller, and in the original 2.1S, which I took back in 2016, and stood STM32F103CB.
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P.S. And firmware takes more than 64K, if that. If there was 64K in the stone, she wouldn't fit in.
STM stones have one feature that some use to save cents. 101 instead of 103, 103C8 instead of 103CB, etc.
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  • Z2K
  • 22 июня 2019, 04:16
0
"some use" - if in the blue tablet the original then all :))
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So on the previous versions stands exactly with the number 8, that e. 64 kB of memory.
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  • Ramiro
  • 22 июня 2019, 12:48
0
salamatin
remember when you said you did the translation? Have you finished it or not?
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translation did (started to do)
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I then considered that just to do the translation of someone else's firmware is not the best option and it is better to do your firmware, where already to do with the Russian language and with other improvements. Then and began to make firmware, the algorithm of work with stings left the same as the Chinese, only optimized. Spent about a week or two on it and even made a working prototype. In fact, the UI remained to be made to install the settings. I didn't see any interest in my firmware, put it off and never came back.
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Why is there no interest? There's interest. If you finish it, only thank you. Then there will be proposals for improvement and will turn out a popular firmware for T12))
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In last year's version of the store stands with 64kB, in the review of Sancho in the photo it is seen ... Review

Maybe that's why it's a weird firmware 2.10, shop.
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Once again, the firmware is more than 64KB. At 103C8 128KB. This is a feature of the production of STM. It's not just in 103 and not just with a flush. And the installation of 103C8 speaks only to the toll of someone who "sold" the fee to save a few cents. I have an honest 103CB in the board bought in 2016.
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And why in the date C8 it is 64KB, and CB 128 KB. Is there something unlocked?
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I don't even know what else to say. I wrote "STM Production Special." You don't have to do anything. For example, stm32f030f4 also has not 16KB, but 32KB (32bits of stone with a good periphery for 50 cents :). There may also be a periphery, which should not be dated.
"For each line for each case MK in production use one mask, charged to the maximum, because it is not profitable to have for each series its own mask. The only difference is in the testing of mc in their production (how much memory is put - so much and test)."
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That is, it is always available, just not guaranteed work? It is clear that the mask is one, I am used to the fact that the rest is simply somehow blocked from access
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ST practice of switching also uses, for example, to disable the perfirage. But in this case it is.
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  • Zardek
  • 22 июня 2019, 07:07
+2
Thanks for the excellent review!
The station itself is similar, but in a metal case.
At the same time, the Chinese managed to glue the battery on top of the transformer during the assembly because of which the BP in the body did not fit in height and the board was strongly bent.
Photos


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Oh, check R10, you have it too between VBAT (pin 1 STM32) and land, or I'm so lucky, and you have to look for a plush from etching or rations.
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  • Zardek
  • 22 июня 2019, 16:44
0
I think so.
Photos
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Look at the rework at the end of the article. I recommend returning the original scheme instead of the joint in this controller.
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  • Zardek
  • 07 июля 2019, 10:25
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Thank you, I'll make it.
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I also had, glued to the bottom of the hull
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  • Khv
  • 22 июня 2019, 11:41
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A similar station with the same version v2.04 But came with a dead SHIM
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  • moor
  • 22 июня 2019, 07:39
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Who in the course compared the stations from KSGER and zumo on stm boards different but also soldering iron at the u'umo why now after 4 contact the corral shorter is incompatible without the perils who can say that the luck is better.
Maybe even without a B.P. mini station.
I've got bulk BP from the notes of 19th to 6A
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A reference would be to a specific kwiko.
And here, too, 4 contacts in fact, because the land and minus are just united, and still on the board of BP.
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  • moor
  • 22 июня 2019, 15:40
0
At least this one.
943
They have their own handkerchief, which can of course be waved in the station itself for full compatibility, I did so on the hatches.
And the ground and minus together twist it as something is not good at all
on the night there it is clear that the minus and the ground IS DIFFERENT and one on the other will not fall and here you can not be shibain from the outlet to catch
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There and the firmware its own, kind of less functional. Percent in general with 32 kb memory is worth. 2.xx firmware won't fit it. They write that there is no motion sensor in the handle, i.e. falling asleep is not supported.
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-5
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Yes, in general, the pulse bp gives the right parameters, there is a galvanic denouement, the controller is quite live with such food, complaining no matter (it's for jbc, they say, there are nuances, and to feed it better in general change), the sting itself is grounded. Of course, it would be nice to check the tip on the sting relative to the ground when rationing, but I do not have the knowledge to make an adequate stand at home. :)
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Pulse BP of course gives the necessary parameters for powering the station, BUT:
1. Noise so that next to the standing soldering iron has to turn off to see a weak signal on the screen of the oscillograph.
2. In the absence of proper grounding, we get 110B changes on the sting case with all the pleasant surprises that are flowing.

There is no other effect when feeding through a conventional low-frequency transformer.
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Well, he makes noise on the air well, but at a distance of half a meter like nothing should guide. And the body can also be made by a screen, ground it. In the last review I had the same pulsations of only 20mV on the output were under load. :) After reworking the BP and with a new probe, in theory, better screened.

Paragraph 2 does not appear in these stations because there are no filtering capacitors on the ground. Grounding here will be as in transformer, just on the sting and minus the exit directly, without any filtering elements. Without grounding minus, grounding only the sting, last time I got a jump in 10 degree sting, even when it cooled, without power. You either have to ground both the controller and the sting, or none of them.
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Paragraph 2 does not appear in these stations because there are no filtering capacitors on the ground.
And what, the capacitor Y1 specified on the concept of BP the Chinese bite themselves? If so, the noise on the air will become unbearable, if not - 110B in the absence of grounding (2 wired socket for example) on the body of the sting are guaranteed.
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110 should be at two Y-conders to the ground without grounding. It should be less pass through the inter-machine. We'll have to measure it. :) True, there are minuscule toses through it, will it knock out any element?
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Knocks only on the way, do not doubt! Meager toy for this is enough to turn an expensive chip into a piece of useless plastic, simply touching its findings with an ungrounded soldering iron.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:08
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Voltmeter (input 10-20MM) 90 volts of change intended between the power withdrawals and the socket. And 100mKA current if you shorten.
Why in this case at all the body of the sting to connect somewhere, let it hang in the air.
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And in this case, the controller loses the ability to adequately determine the temperature of the sting because of the tip. Closed circle. You can try and see for yourself.
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No, I wrote in a previous review, if you don't ground neither the sting nor the controller, the temperature won't jump. If only the sting - jumps madly.
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  • Z2K
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:21
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20mV is cool. And thank you for the nuances of grounding
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I just don't know if this cable affects you like that or what. :) But the probe shows significantly more fronts on the meander from the generator (inductivity is greater than that of the native), but at the same time on the BP pulsations through it are significantly less registered ...

And about the grounding purely experienced way got ... Initially, I only wanted to ground the stinging body. And at the same time the glitches on the temperature went...
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  • moor
  • 22 июня 2019, 16:09
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Strictly speaking here I have a transformer hatch is not the first and every year more fun and there is a denouement from the network at the very entrance (the land in the house is not so sick theme) but the trance that stuck there the Chinese do not pull at all puffs fart except that does not bounce, has already taken a normal torus to replace.
And in the new board, the Chinese "forgot" the resistor loader for the compressor so that the sevenstor on it may not work at any time.
Waiting for the connectors still that would on the muzzle to replace the misunderstanding ps/2 on soldering iron.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:31
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Once once the transformer hatch 702 nailed in a row several poles while soldering - the ground in the house, too, but in the outlet earthen wires common and directly on the sting flew 110 volts from the ground computer power supply.
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:32
+4
there is no land in the house either, but in the outlet the earthen wires are common
As far as I remember, in the absence of grounding in the house, the grounding contact of the outlet cannot be connected.
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  • pleas
  • 22 июня 2019, 23:41
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The socket is a double euro, on both the output of the ground, inside they are connected, so if in one connected pulsed BP, then in the other on the ground will be 110 volts. And since the hatch sting directly goes to the ground in a fork, it turned out to be a bull.
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  • moor
  • 23 июня 2019, 02:09
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Yes, so, include through a white transitionor in an extension cord, that would ensure that the solder is not connected to the grounding, such are the realities in the house without land.
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  • Z2K
  • 23 июня 2019, 06:22
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Tricky as you have :)
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  • dgin
  • 22 июня 2019, 08:45
-9
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Well, such a station is used not by pros, but by amateurs who wanted more. :))
I have already written in a previous review that electronics have no relationship, programmer. Well, there is a hobby, and in question I like to understand the details. I wanted to compare T12 with my station in the 900s, bought at a sale. Wrote a review about the doge. After it offered a new free review, they say, and we have already updated version.
While the theme T12 for me is new, it is interesting to dig.
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I'm not a special specialist, but on the gif comparing the stability of the temperature readings you can see that the old station has a stinger calibrated, but on the new one it is not. Maybe that's what this is about.
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I do not think, because the calibration only corrects the real temperature, by default there is a setting for something between the gills. I didn't change the type of sting at the old station even when I was rearranging, i.e. the calibration was wrong.

That's why I brought the gif of cooling, there is no power on the regret at all, i.e. the station stands in a cycle just out of reading the temperature, and it jumps up a little instead of a consistent decline. At the old station it was (even cooler, 10 degree jumps) when I tried to ground only the sting, without bp. And if you ground everything, the temperature is worth it.

So on the new one I tried the old bpd and grounded a separate wire to minus the power on gx12. Or even disable the grounding (on the old also stopped jumping temperature). It doesn't help.

PS: put on its old that there is a sting D16, the calibration is not, inserted to the sting. The behavior is the same. 120 stands as dug, occasionally 121. And 250 after the completion of the transition process is also only once every few seconds to 251 jumps, and the further, the less often jumps. The new is noticeably worse OU (although for sure everywhere there are copies, not the original), I want to buy the heels of precision as on the old, and replace here mikrukh, check.
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And I had this trouble after the first turn on. In less than 30 seconds the soldering iron was working. Condeur decided to go into orbit.
Replaced with another. The second native began to warm up and swollen in front of his eyes. Replaced him, as well. But the station didn't. Constantly blinking the scoreboard and error message. And something cracks the insides of the board. Measured the voltage at the exit of block 45V. The Chinese sent a new one.
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You must have TL431, I've seen two reviews on ali about it for just this BP. When I was refining my own and I was not allowed to stabilize, one also exploded, at the exit was under 48B. It's good that without the controller turned on.

You are careful, the controller input can be up to 40 V. Protection is not.

I've cited a couple of models in the second comment, they seem more reliable to me than this one.
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I'm thinking maybe it's better to use the non-dumb unit at 20v 4.25A.
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You're going to lose a little bit of power.
It is not clear what is so crooked in this bp, why they come without external disturbances. Can a quality component such? Well, does not close the radiator 300B on the way out ...
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can and from the laptop, only preferably output voltage to raise to 24B
Немного потеряете в мощности. 

at 20B - really will be no higher than 50W
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Well, it's hard to find. There are 24 in, but on amps 2-2.1
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ноутбучный блок использовать на 20v 4.25A

The TL431 will stand there (percent at 90 percent). From it through the optopara is controlled on the high-voltage part, if a little adjust the denomination of the resistor from the average output to the power supply (for example in this BP R18) you can slightly raise the output voltage.
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It is clear from volts that it is better than 24. What about the amps? If you take for example 2 and 7-9 And how do you say?
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 10:42
+3
If you for example take on 2
Either it will work with overload, or will go to the defense.

And at 7-9, how do you say that?
I don't think so.
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Andrey, can you comment on the pulsations of BP and fears about Y1 and the radiator?
Do I have a data shoot somewhere or can there be a small 1 kHz sine on the way out?
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 18:54
+3
Andrey, can you comment on the pulsations of BP and fears about Y1 and the radiator?
Strange some place to install a capacitor, for some reason I do not like. It looks like it was originally planned to be grounded.

Do I have a data shoot somewhere or can there be a small 1 kHz sine on the way out?
And I only recently got a similar power supply (that under the "new" scheme, I replaced it with 50 Hz trance, now as a reviewer with tests sketch and at the same time look.
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The stinger has resistance to 8 Om (ideally, original), its power is 70W.
At the initial heating of the sting (the first 10-15 seconds after inclusion) the BP will give up to 3A per load. Once the thermal regime is stabilized, the current consumed will drop.
BP on 24B 2A when switched on will work with overload (if it does not go to the defense of the current), then more or less in regular mode
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Thank you, I get it. So we're going to look for anything more than 3A. I've seen it somewhere on the 24th, 6-7A
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на 24в, 6-7A 

double the stock, enough more than.
I had in my first solder on stm32 stood 24B3A

and it was enough
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I put the EPS-120-24 from meanwell (24B 5A) in Combo, working great.

Link

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+1
good BP, price bites

PS in such posts, except for photos, it is still desirable to add links ;-)
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it's there right above the picture :)
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I didn't see her right away or she wasn't there;-)
Thank you, come in handy
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I didn't see her right away or she wasn't there;-)
first :)

P.S. imho $14.5 for a good power supply is not too biting price.
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Only twice as much as a regular BP soldering station, if the memory doesn't change. $10 and $20.
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+1
on Tao, the overlooked is worth even less - $5.6
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And if the delivery to throw, etc. Tao. Significantly more expensive $20 will come out on the idea. On Ali expensive, $28, in Moscow at the meanwell cheaper even.
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Ощутимо дороже $20 выйдет по идее

train delivery to Ukraine (30 days) - $4 per 1kg.
BP weighs 0.21kg, i.e. delivery will be in the region of 80-90 cents
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Is that part of the team? And if one BP just order?
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Carrier MystExpress (Poland) takes: to Russia, to Ukraine, to Uzbekistan
warehouse in Guangzhou.

there is online support, there are contacts, find out, take
Weight is considered with accuracy of 0.01kg
you can send one lot, skin consolidate in a common large parcel, all this (if necessary) with a detailed check and photo report.
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For the sake of interest I thought, if I ordered only a power supply, it would cost me a delivery of $17.
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is it tailored to the middleman and the carrier?

and if you buy yourself and send only the carrier China-Armenia?
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only the carrier, I do not use the services of intermediaries.
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you are transported dearly, although China is closer to Armenia than Ukraine
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Yes, it's expensive. 100g-80 cents.
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 18:56
+5
you are transported dearly, although China is closer to Armenia than Ukraine
I remember that AnnaSan boasted how to them all cheap with taobao comes out.
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+5
Yeah, I remember...
Only AnnaSun was from Georgia
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Yes, I pointed out the Moscow price for MW BP in dollar terms.
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Va., I put the same in return for the burnt staff. He also gets up in the grooves in the hull, but the cross had to be cut.
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  • kirich
  • 22 июня 2019, 18:57
+3
If only for the soldering, it is enough and this,especially since it is noticeably more compact.
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That's enough.
Isn't it weak?
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  • kirich
  • 24 июня 2019, 15:40
+2
Even with a reserve.
The current of the defense is about 3.8 Amper, T12 consumes up to 3 amps.
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  • GYUR22
  • 22 июня 2019, 11:00
0
Very strangely drawn reset chain, so the controller generally should not start- for in the cutter it when the NRST is on the ground
Red as it should be
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The reset was not called, took from the scheme of the old controller. And the R10 is really on pin 1 worth. You can see the track well in the large photo.
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  • GYUR22
  • 22 июня 2019, 11:41
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if only parasitic some conder tokens charge...
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No, in STM32 pull-up cutter 40k. Below is a date-sing picture of the lead.
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  • GYUR22
  • 22 июня 2019, 13:05
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yes you're right I've forgotten about it, just the usual recommendation, all the internal pullulas do more powerful otherwise no one garatizes anything
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1, but it's kind of clear on the date scheme, the conder 100nF internal pulls.
The seller tries to understand me, but can not... How can he show such tos in the photo? :) I can't measure 2 mcA.
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  • GYUR22
  • 22 июня 2019, 16:44
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I suspect they just got wrong with the resistor, he had to go on the frisky
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+1
I'm thinking, is there a minimum current through a stabilizing? Will it open at 1.3 micros? Measured consumption with rework and in the original, it's a cool file on the part of the Chinese ...
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  • GYUR22
  • 07 июля 2019, 12:23
0
Recently, just ran into a difference in the behavior of a stabilizer in modeling and in life, and yes purely theoretically, there may be a leak current of 2.7 q 0.6 q 3.3 but this is at 5m, and considering that 2v7 tester measures at 1.9v...
There is a suspicion that there should be diodes - even shots they have a smaller fall.
Or stabilizers pretend to be them - they have a direct fall of a small 0.2B at such orders of current
The D7 pulls up to the power, the D6 so that there is no current in the battery.
R10 - gives an extra current why xs.
Maybe then all this makes sense, but the battery at the expense of R10 should land faster.
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By and large, there is nothing needed. Inside the stm32 power switch. The battery's input is turned off when the external one is fed. And if the depleted MK to apply voltage from the battery, consumption will not be, i.e. there is not just the entrance of the backup power, and the entrance, which works only if it was voltage when the main.

For the mk to work at the entrance of the battery power may not be anything, to serve there basic power does not make much sense.
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  • GYUR22
  • 07 июля 2019, 21:26
0
Well, maybe they're fighting with the stats or don't want to put jumpers on, even though it all works without them.
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I don't know what, but it looks crooked...
Checked the stability.
1. Fall on it as in the date, just over 0.6 B.
2. Just like a diode it at the toe a little more than a microamper does not work, i.e. it really does not open, and the controller is without power, if the battery connect through this stabilized.
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+3
I called again. On the board is exactly such a curve scheme. The seller does not yet understand what the error is, offers to send a new battery. :)))

And here it was on last year's version, taken from Sancho:


PS: The NRST cutter is not needed, it is inside STM32. Here's a diagram of the date on STM32:
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R10 generally clean or rearrange as in the picture above?
And with the stabilizers - D7 to remove at all, D6 to remove and replace with a jumper, right?
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+3
Remove. Make both on the scheme of poata in 2018. Three parts to remove and put one jumper, however, the D6 can be left, just it 0.6 In the perpad voltage adds, without it the battery should last longer to maintain the watch.
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+1
Added consumption measurements at the end of the article.
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And I redo them for 24B and put on T12. Worth a penny (worth, in the time of "shares"), works elegantly, the size is smaller than "people's".
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Countryman, you're 12 volts converted into 24B???
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Think so. On the secondary there is a built 7 turns. Put a double 15 turns. 10k parallel resistor into the ground on TL431. And slightly reduce the resistance of the current shunt (iom 20Om in the parallel) that the protection does not work. Since BP does not work constantly at full capacity, nothing warms up.
S.Yu. sorry, forgot, weekend containers and Shottki also change to 25B and 10200 match.
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All forgot to ask: the thickness of the back panels the Chinese corrected? And then in my station it cracked in the corners where the holes under the cuts, had to ask the Chinese to send a new one.
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+1
do not skimp on the crumbs, buy at once normal cases
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It doesn't crack here, but it's the same thickness. If the power wire is yanked, the panel bends all... I admit it might crack. However, in this place the sleeves and screw, you can stupidly squeeze the panel when twisting.
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I had the first cracks immediately, the rest appeared with a very neat twisting of self-cutters.
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Plus for the responsibility...
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+2
Grand!



"You wouldn't have paintings, boss, you should write books..." ©
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+2
Thank you. :) The books aren't mine. Wrote in his time a couple of articles, several manuals, even one course of lectures, thankless this thing in my case. :)
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+3
Now a lot of things in our lives have become "ungrateful" ...
"Oh times! Oh manners!"
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  • Polf
  • 23 июня 2019, 03:09
0
That's a good review.
Last year, I bought a power supply from KSGER to build the station, the controller did it himself. The price was jacked up because it included courier delivery, and no other methods of delivery were offered when buying. With the delivery there was an embarrassment: almost lost, swearing with the seller, wrote letters to DPD-SPSR, got the same with a big delay. Today I read this review and decided to see if I had the same, it turned out the same. And the shobs are the same. So they've been selling them for a long time. A radiator lying on a 300 volt track is not good. Although it is electrically connected anywhere, and the straightener is used in an isolated plastic case, nevertheless, if it sews on the radiator, you can accidentally get under these volts, there they do not expect. He rolled out the screw, attaching the straightener to the radiator, heating in turn with soldering pins of the radiator, which are put into the board, lifted the radiator above the board by about a millimeter and a half. Then, using the T12-K stinger, heated three straightener outputs at the same time, and lifted it too. As there was no heat-paste between the straightener and the radiator, it had to be applied.
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+2
yes, this block isn't new, so many audits have been. The first were without slits on the board and y-capacitor. Just positioned as new, although if last year it was often more expensive at 2-3 dollars, then after 11.11 the price hangs the same.

Honestly, why they didn't copy the WX block, I don't get it. Or copied not completely, and then sculpted options, as it turns out.

At the first versions of this BP radiator diode stood in the opposite direction, ribs outward board, now turned 180 degrees for some reason, apparently little in this place heat from the transformer.

With the radiator, I was confused that it was over two tracks at once. In one of Kirich's reviews, the basic level of protection at 1.5kV is 2 mm in straight and 2.5 mm on the circuit board between hot and cold parts. And then through the intermediate metal is much less ... And I am afraid that at the jump will break the track on the radiator ... It's great to have a lift.
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-3
I recommend the store, as quickly reacted to my order, as well as for help in choosing, its quick delivery. It's been a pleasure to deal with you.
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I am also confused by the fact that the base or shutter of this transistor is connected to the output of the microcontroller without any current-limiting resistor.
Let it not confuse, the port of the microcontroller limits the current itself...
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Is there a lift in there? To charge from the shutter "drained" normally ("back" to the controller)? I understand, of course, that everything works, but in the original scheme there was also a resistor pulling to the ground. I've caught a glimpse of the date, the discrete output can be programmed to adjust what a lift resistors on it.
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No lift is needed...
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A key is usually needed to work. Either it's inside the controller or it's outside. On the keys for pomp and valve it is, for example.
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In this case, the output of the microcontroller is push-bullet, so no resistor is needed.
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  • CuMr
  • 23 июня 2019, 18:36
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And show me a line in the date, where it says that the controller limits the current. Not the maximum allowable current, but that limitation at the level of, say, the XX MA.
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Here, especially for you.
I have been working with STM32F1xx for a long time.

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  • CuMr
  • 22 июля 2019, 16:19
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The microcontroller port restricts the current itself
I mean, if I put my foot on the ground and put a log on this nog.1, the current won't exceed 25mA. And this is obviously not the case - this parameter means that the leg can not be loaded more than 25mA. These are completely different things.
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That's right, try it. The ports of this processor are almost impossible to burn.
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  • CuMr
  • 22 июля 2019, 21:56
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Ok. Then on the other hand. And if you hang an LED on this leg (NO limiting resistor!) and bring out the unit. The port will limit the current to 25 mA and the LED in such inclusion will live happily ever after?
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Connect...
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Please add a diagram to the splan...
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If she were...
Have sancho1971 on Google drive (link in its review to controller), but for the station in the developer's version. As a result, I drew changes in the graph. Editor.
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I see... No so no...
I wanted to download the scheme as a picture, in good resolution... but I couldn't do it because of the backup protection... the scheme opens in a roll size, but it is impossible to save... or I'm doing something wrong...
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Well, if you open the picture and immediately press the right button, you can have time. And then there are the mechanisms.
If it does not work, in person, the picture without problems will send or put on Google.
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Many thanks... It's a go... By pressing the right button quickly...
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or you can face it - it didn't work out
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  • Adz
  • October 8, 2019, 2:50 p.m.
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A new version of the Ve2.12s controller has been released. From what caught my eye corrected the joint with the wrong trace for JBC sting.
The controller costs sm32f101rct6. In the evening, if I have time to kina photo
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Did the battery power be fixed? I kind of sent them a diagram.
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Check out how to buy a station with a fresh version of the controller? Need to write to the seller to send the most relevant or what algorithm?
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  • AlexST77
  • 17 октября 2019, 12:17
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They usually send with the last audit, the stock in warehouses somehow missing.
But it is better to clarify before buying which version. At the same time you can wait for 11.11. :)
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Good idea, thank you.
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  • AlexST77
  • 18 октября 2019, 09:20
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Here on the cat posted a photo of the new board, only the controller there STM32F103RB (64pin). Do you have the same one? Judging by the picture, the battery power returned as it was, i.e. correct.
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  • jin
  • 23 октября 2019, 15:52
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That's just come the parcel, powered battery-powered through the stabilizers, but the resistor I did not find, the sting jbc,R0 is not inpublic, there the track manually cut it must between smd contacts R0, cut, contacts 6 and 1 connector XH 2.54 disconnected....
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  • AlexST77
  • 23 октября 2019, 16:18
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Another intermediate version... From KSGER? What's the version on the back?
If the food was provided through the stables, then I did not have food through the stabilizron, apparently, too little current. It's worth checking the battery on your leg. But at least OU type is normal, but the designation is not original ... Something savings on everything has become, the people on the cat are dissatisfied with the quality of the latest boards.
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  • jin
  • 23 октября 2019, 16:44
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Yes, ksger, no rooms on the back... The board was removed from the Xgerga in a metal case... stabilizrons (S4 marking can diodes?) D2,D3 in the photo is seen on the left above the biper...
battery-2,993 B, on 1 leg stm32-2,939 B... measuring fluke 17b device...
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  • AlexST77
  • 23 октября 2019, 17:02
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It's Shottka diodes, and it's more correct than stabilizers. :)
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  • jin
  • 25 октября 2019, 21:50
+1
came to my mind here, and what if the controller ksger t12, hitch to quck 202d? As the functionality of the native control unit about anything, just keeps the temperature ...
pulled out the native, inserted t12, it turned out that when work is re-adjusting up, as the induction is fast as diarrhea ... looked at the impulses of the managers, too long, but in principle, if the duration of the ipulses is lowered, it will be quite good, imho essy ...
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  • RandnaR
  • 02 ноября 2019, 09:30
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This came, Ve2.12S is signed from that side.
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That's right, the latest original version of 2.12, store (ksger) is 3.0, 3.10 is already 3.3... But God forbid to buy this UG.
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KSGER 2.12 also has its own. So is 2.1S. On the extreme version, like, all the shods of wiring corrected.
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The store (KSGER) has its firmware (2.12) and can not be, the store is written under the original but not as 2.12 can 3.00, 3.10 ... etc it could be. All this I write about firmware and not about circuit boards.
The original boards are already known, many times they were written about: 2.00, 2.01, 2.1S all of them with a green mask ... everything else is designing the store.
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So we are about marking exactly the store boards.
And the firmware there is probably 2.10 so far. What it fits, xs, is like 2.09, as I understand it.
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So we are about marking exactly the store boards.
Oops sorry, I thought you were :) firmware.
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:)
By the way, at 2.12 did not accelerate the cycle of heating-poll? Or maybe it makes sense to re-ask the store.
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By the way, at 2.12 did not accelerate the cycle of heating-poll?
The most stable version and why do you need a fast heated-poll cycle? Do you use a JBC cartridge?
Or maybe it makes sense to re-ask the store.
You can try these gnarled versions, but only if you have a dump OF EPROM under your controller, the calculator is not used because its registration is used: ID1 ID2 ID3
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And why do you need a fast heated-poll cycle?
In fact, at the store 2.10 at sharp heating (for example, under 375 degrees) or calibration on some stings there is a split bass, instead of the "conced" process is a constant dance of 10..15 degrees with cooling until the atage. And there was also on my first controller with a stinger, which had no such problems before. It's burnt or something. There is a feeling that with a quick survey, at least twice as fast, the convergence will return. Now the poll with a strong heat of almost 2-3 Hz, judging by the diode.
these gnarled versions
So I'm on the contrary, I want to sew the shop on 2.12. Is she a dump?
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IMHO all the troubles associated with over adjustment mostly lie on bad stings, I have a controller on the original board 2.00 (firmware 2.12) use in conjunction with suHAN stings honestly I will say excellent copies, the temperature is kept stable, if you take high temperatures for no lead, just work well, twisted at 480 grd. There is a 3 grd. but so it's the maximum :)
So I'm on the contrary, I want to sew the shop on 2.12. Is she a dump?
And... Shop stitch on 2.12, there is nothing to sew firmware 2.12 for the board 2.01 and the calculator consider the activation key. But if on the contrary from 2.12 to store 3.00, 3.10, 3.30 then you need a dump ePROM a few when there was a store version.
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  • Khrtt
  • 04 ноября 2019, 23:21
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As for the dead batteries - the hike they stupidly confused C1 and R10. It is not clear how this happened.

Here's a think about what happens if you swap them: the resistor in the C1 position will be a bullet for the reset, and the conductor in the R10 position will filter the Vbat.
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Then it is necessary not just to change their places.
But C1 is on correctly, according to the date, it has been turned on before. Without R10, stabilizers do not open. In the intermediate version of the board, they guessed to replace the stabilizers with the Shottka diodes and simply removed the R10. And in the next, if I'm not mistaken, just returned as it was originally in version 2.1, the battery directly on the leg of the controller.
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Perhaps they took the scheme from a similar project and messed up.
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It's possible. Considering that the resistor was not then finished, but initially on the board. But there are also diodes of Shottka, and in the controller stabilizers. And the diagram in the picture is more like a scheme using AKB. And the purpose of VD3 is not clear to me, on the tocs of the controller on the resistor falls less than on the diode ...
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  • Shi
  • 04 июля 2020, 02:48
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Tell me, I read all the pro stations on t12, as a result bought KSGER DIY Kit STM32 2.1 S OLED 1.3, almost 1v1 as in this review, only in aluminum case. since even before the purchase read here about the problem with the battery - checking the health immediately went to look guts. the find was a flop on its feet, and the station worked with it. I've already cleaned the plume.

find two - R10 not unsalthian:


the question is, do I need to remove the D7 and replace the D6 with a jumper? Or have the Chinese fixed it?
If necessary, can you just use a piece of copper wire as a jumper?

Just in case I will draw your attention that there was information about a newer board, where the squeaker next to the encoder, so I ordered the station less than a month ago from ketaya, and I was brought exactly with such a fee as you in the review, and not with a new one. (although in the comments to the lot people post photos of the new revision, where the squeaker next to the encoder.
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There is a feeling that you have been sent a refurbished. Because there's a lot of flux. The plume on the Mosfet is not terrible, there are all legs on this side - it's one contact. As for reworking - if the battery clock is working, you can do nothing (the resistor discharges it). There were stabilizers instead of diodes on my board, and they didn't work on micro-ampki, without a jumper there was no battery power. If you have - at your discretion (for example, if there are diodes Shottki), except that a slight drop in voltage is present.
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  • Shi
  • 04 июля 2020, 16:38
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I checked, as long as the clocks are working, in 20 minutes without a network connection, we haven't lost your way.

the display is strange if the soldering iron is not connected - it is written error (it is quite understandable), but periodically the error on the second is replaced by temperature values, as if the station seems to be connected to a soldering iron. It's nipanyat.
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I mentioned this in the first review, some leads that amplifies the ADC. But in this version I did not have them, only in the previous. It may help to ground in the socket.
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  • Shi
  • 04 июля 2020, 18:03
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oh, well, if it's not critical then with it.

grounding is fine, but where to get it is a big question. I understand that legal and safe for the surrounding ways to ground in case there is no separate earth wire in the flap , there is no, despite the fact that I live on the ground floor . (
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If there is no electrolytes, then yes, and zero may not be grounded. Although it is worth learning on the profile forums. I have ground zero, so the grounding could be bred, even though it's not entirely fair.
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  • Shi
  • 04 июля 2020, 19:53
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I didn't know about the stove. The stove is on the project, as there is no gas in the house. we need to find out how this is going.
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There everything is simple, the stove must come grounding, and a separate wire. You can see where it comes from.
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Poke, please, nose into what now buy a dukely handle.
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A set, a ready-made station? I'd break a couple of orders, under different coupons.

If you buy from Ksger, then there are stations on 2.1 controller in a separate category, collected already. Different just the set, different handles and the number of stings. Sometimes it's more profitable.
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The set doesn't scare you if it's more profitable.
Is there a set with a case, a controller, a pen, but no BP? Some BP is quite eager at KSGER, the more I understand they fly out one by one.
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I don't think he's one of the first people to get in the set. You can go to different stores at all. And the body is better than metal, plastic is something with something...
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Does it make any sense to chase 2.1?
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If the plans have a suction or connection of something not T12, it may be easier with 2.1. It doesn't make any difference. Sancho had a sign somewhere with a difference of versions.
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  • bobr388
  • 04 декабря 2019, 03:34
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Thank you to the author for a good review and to all the participants of the debate for a productive discussion. I learned a lot of useful information on stations on T12. Before this topic, 17 other good reviews have been worked out. Assessing all the pros and cons, ordered the same, only in meth. Housing.
I'm tormented now with one question, I hope someone will be able to help me. Knowing how hard it is to live RE-components in closed spaces, I want to do at my station forced cooling on a small cooler (type 4010, 3010) on 24B and NO-thermostat degrees at 50-60. I plan to connect the cooler to the exit of the BP, the thermostat to stick to one of the radiators, in the case cut holes to release warm air during the cooling process.
Who doesn't think the idea is delusional? If not delusional, a small additional load on the output of the BP in the form of a cooler will not greatly affect the performance of the station?

And one more request, if here on Musk, there is information, how to learn to buy a man from an armored train on TaoBao, poke the link.
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  • AlexST77
  • 04 декабря 2019, 07:22
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About Tao

I would instead of a fan make a thermointerface to the body if it was metallic. However, taking into account the shim control load on the bp is quite weak, inside is quite comfortable temperature (only if the station is not used as a boiler :)).
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There were stations with Russian support, v3.1S software version



Although even with my knowledge of the bourgeois language to understand the settings is simple.
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  • AlexST77
  • 16 декабря 2019, 20:33
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That's how they appeared a long time ago. Firmware capabilities are cut relative to 2.x.
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Firmware capabilities are cut relative to 2.x
What's the cut?

And by the way... It's a question of hours. In particular, on the adjustment of the move.
I put a calculated value in RTC Adjust. How do you keep it? Tried a short press on the encoder, choosing comfirm (confirm) - the clock as went wrong, and go. You go to the RTC Adjust menu and there's "00S" again.
Firmware 2.12.


The battery is naturally installed, fresh. Included as on the screen:


It was originally like this:
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  • AlexST77
  • 17 декабря 2019, 06:42
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I do not remember that it was written in the comments, 3.x it is a separate someone's firmware, there is something with a calibration for sting was easier, whether only a few cells, it is impossible to individually customize the entire library, or something else in this spirit.

I didn't use the correction of the watch, to be honest. Maybe it doesn't even work.
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Hello friends) Became a happy owner. Babakhd bp in the tenth minute of the work of use, had time to fill and the menu to come, burned almost everything to D3 20n60.
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Shorty in the ration is not on bp?
If you fix, you have to watch the cold part. And you can write to the seller, often goes to meet in the event of a breakdown.
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Yesterday, too, burned BP. Photo the same :)
Resistor 0.3 Om, shim, fielder, and probably something else, until I understand.

20n60 isn't it a sly for such schemes with its 600B? I think he's the culprit.
Damper is alive. It looks like a fielder has really been put up in a back-to-back.
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The previous version is at 650B.

And look closely, is not relabeled by the hour pole? Maybe it's just a fake problem. These are certainly not expensive mosfets, but...

On the "people's" BP there is exactly the same transistor. Another difference - there is a 22mkF capacitor at SHIM, and in the people's 33 mcF. Somewhere in the reviews it was found that 22 is not enough under some conditions and can cut off SHIM. But still the field should not burn out...
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An autopsy of the body showed that a field with a shim controller was broken, turned into a corner of R1, in the precipice of R8 and R6. F1 bravely withstood the short in the hot part, worked in front of the entrance pad. The 68MF capacitor didn't lose so much weight to 1nF.
The rest is alive.
Heated significantly R20 when working TL431, I think it is worth increasing its face value.
Ordered parts in China. We will carry out restoration work.
Thank you to the author for the scheme.
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Restored. CR6842S was replaced by OB2269CP (escaped to CHI). the rest of the giblets were available.
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Congratulations. I wonder what was the root cause...
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Probably losing the electrolyte capacity.
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About the correcting of the clock...
On the radio, in the topic of this PS, advised first to put a time correction / save, then to put the correct time. And they seem to be right, the time correction seems to have started to work.
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  • P060T
  • February 8, 2020, 00:25
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Bought the same controller last summer complete with the same blue handle and three stings. Gathered in the same case with a hairdryer and BP. I didn't use it often. The batteries lasted for a week, but not really and it was necessary. (Now it is clear why I would redo, over time BUT...)
The other day, the controller itself passed out. I began to check - there is no secondary power of 3.3B. Measured resistance on the power bus - short (0.28 Om). To rule out a short on the part of the converter JW5026 fell L1- Same. Removed C2, C5, C6 - not them. Then I'm thinking of removing the chips one at a time, what else could be? Maybe who has what thoughts?
I haven't served in a year, it's a shame.
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  • AlexST77
  • 08 февраля 2020, 01:36
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Resistance after JW5026 or before?
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  • P060T
  • 08 февраля 2020, 02:00
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short (0.28 om to the ground) on a feed of 3.3B after JW5026 and L1, so L1, C2, C5, C6 and fell out. (from 24B - everything is normal)
came across posts about the power controller's breakdown, no matter how it was (((
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  • AlexST77
  • 08 февраля 2020, 10:59
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It's going to be a shame. Without a battery, do you measure it? And then there are no diodes, stabilizers, and some multimeters on the low range serve a voltage of several volts on the probes, little can stab pierced.
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  • P060T
  • 08 февраля 2020, 13:30
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Of course, without a battery... measured both by multimeter and multi-tester TS-1

BY, by the way, according to the given scheme: C2-10mkF (by measurement of z11), C5, C6-200nF (205)
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And they seem to be right, the time correction seems to have started to work.
Nefiga doesn't work. Is it possible to get rid of the watch on the display at all? You don't need that. I'd like to be fine, or it's going to show the weather in the ketay.
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Is it possible to get rid of the watch on the display at all?
If you don't need a watch, just drink the watch quartz, the watch will disappear and the screen will have a temperature in the format of xxx.x C
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When working station KSGER with the same (v2.04) power supply noticed that from the sting solder on the boards light up LEDs, and the hand pinches when touching soldering tracks. In addition, one cheap USB device has died after replacing it with a connector (not USB) - although it may be a coincidence. I suspect Y-capator is to blame. What happens if it is completely removed from the scheme? Will the controller start to fool? There is no grounding in the socket. The heater, as I understand it, doesn't care about the pulsations.

PS measured the change between its own hand and the plus/minus output of 82 volts.
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No grounding in principle, not even contact, or in the wiring? Because other things, such as a network filter, can give the earth the potential of their scheme. Falling Y in this case will not help. But without it there should be no problems, only a little more interference. And if the controller board with a connector on the wires, you can just kick the grounding from the GX12 to take out and isolate.
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There is no grounding in the wiring, but the station was included in the tee with ground contact. It also included a laptop adapter, which also pinches the wrists while working. If you include only the station in the socket, there is still 75 volts between the hand and minus the BP, even after the Y-capacitor is cut. I don't know if it means anything, but there are doubts that low-voltage electronics will withstand this even with minuscule electrics. Apparently we will have to collectively farm transformer power.
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If the adapter has a ground plug, yes, it could give potential. Without Y secondary turns out to be galvanically unleashed, the transformer does its job. Although parasitic containers remain. And the hand is not the earth. In your case, you can try not to ground, and to equalize potentials. For example, the antistatic mat is connected to the ground of the station, as well as the hand with it through the bracelet.
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But first I'll try your option with the grounding disconnection from the sting. Thank you.

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